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A Model for Fixing Our Nation’s Broken Food System

Introduction

The 2008 Farm Bill included a provision for the creation of a Healthy Urban Food Enterprise Development Center (HUFEDC) (Peterson, 2008). The HUFEDC, housed at Winrock International’s Wallace Center, awards subgrants totaling $3 million over three years to assist the development, growth and expansion of community-based food enterprises that are working to expand access to high quality, affordable, nutritious food in underserved communities (Frain Muldoon, 2010). With the enactment of this bill, we are finally seeing more support from the federal government for two seemingly disparate issues: local, small-scale farming, and urban community food enterprises. 

The connection of these two issues will simultaneously help to create markets for rural and semi-rural small-scale food producers, and provide much needed fresh fruits and vegetables to local urban markets, especially in low-income communities. This essay aims to explore the motivation and context for the implementation of this policy, and to highlight the need for much more funding of this kind in the future. Background and Motivation Our country is in desperate need of an overhaul of our food system. Today, what most Americans consider “food” comes in boxes or plastic bags containing more processed synthetic chemicals than real food. Our grandparents would probably not recognize 90% of the “foods” that fill our grocery store shelves. During the last century our food system has come to be dominated by large agri-business and factory farms. These operations have succeeded in reducing the cost and labor involved with growing and preparing our daily meals, and for many people this has been a welcome technological revolution. It has freed a generation from the burden of cooking, starting in the 1960 when more women began entering the workforce and quick, easy to prepare packaged foods helped them juggle the new demands of work and home (Winne, 2008). However, as these processed foods have become staples in our diets, to the point that we no longer have any idea where our food comes from or how it is grown, we begin to see the price we’ve been paying for this convenience.

First, there is the cost to our farming communities, which have seen dramatic reductions in diversified small-scale farming but large increases in commodity crops such as corn and soybeans, the primary ingredients of most processed foods (Toews, 2010). These commodity crops are not only contributing to the glut of unhealthy foods on store shelves, but they are routinely sprayed with petroleum-based fertilizers, toxic pesticides, and herbicides, which pollute our environment and negatively impact both the farm worker’s and consumer’s health. In addition, we are increasingly relying on other countries to supply our population with the food we need (Astyk & Newton, 2009). If we are concerned about our nation’s dependence on foreign sources of oil, shouldn’t we be even more concerned about our dependence on foreign sources of food? And then there is the impact on the farmers themselves. A small farmer named Elaine Solowey is eloquently quoted in A Nation of Farmers, saying, “So farmers were eliminated, one after another, by murder, displacement, bankruptcy, by taxes that would not let land be passed from generation, by on-farm prices that left farmers unable to feed their own families, by subsidies that favored farms beyond human scale. Many studies over the years showed that the small farm produced much more food with less environmental damage than larger “economic” models. But the “economic” models produced more of their one product and looked good on paper, never mind the cost to the locale, the water or the soil or the people who lived in the area. Get big, said the US secretary of agriculture. Or get out. So we got out.” (Astyk & Newton, 2009, p. 38). Second, there is the cost to our public health. All of these processed foods are higher in salt, sugar, and saturated fats than natural whole foods, which leads to increased risks of obesity and diseases such as diabetes, heart disease, and cancer (Engler-Stringer, 2009; Lucan, Karpyn, & Sherman, 2010). The situation becomes even more serious for people living in low-income urban areas, where they are less likely to have easy access to larger grocery stores with fresh produce, and where there are urban grocery stores the prices are 14-37% higher (Winne, 2008). Generally for people in these communities, most of their food shopping is done at convenience stores that do not stock any fresh produce.

While the last decade has seen an uptick in the number of small farms run by a new generation of people who recognize the growing demand for local, sustainably produced food, this community is largely white and middle class (Winne, 2008). The farmers markets that provide a place for these new farmers and shoppers to find each other are generally in the more affluent parts of town or the suburbs, where the farmers can get the higher price for their produce that allows their small-scale operations to be feasible. Prior to the 2008 Farm Bill, food stamps were not accepted at these markets, putting this fresh, healthy food out of reach for low-income people. More and more of these small, young, sustainably-minded farms have been popping up just outside of large urban centers, where the farmers have better access to urbanites willing to pay a premium for high-quality produce. It is not that people in low-income communities don’t want to eat healthy foods; it is that they often can’t get to them, and when they can, they can’t afford them (Winne, 2008). Until the HUFEDC was implemented, there was no federal support for farmers or organizations who wanted to connect the dots between small-scale sustainable farming and getting healthy, fresh food to low-income communities.

Implementation and Stakeholder Influence

The 2008 Farm Bill, also known as the Food, Conservation, and Energy Act of 2008, was passed into law on June 18, 2008, despite being vetoed by President Bush, with a veto-proof majority in the House and Senate (Peterson, 2008).

The process of implementing the Farm Bill was radically different than in previous years. New alliances of stakeholder groups shifted the traditional balance of power that has controlled the passage of previous farm bills, as illustrated in Figure 1 (“The 2008 Farm Bill – Debate & Influences,” n.d.). In the past, the large corporate agricultural businesses, generally known as “Big-Ag”, hired powerful lobbyists who do their bidding to the Washington politicians from agricultural states. It has not been unusual for these Big-Ag businesses to actually write portions of the legislation that suits their interests, and then use their substantial financial and political muscle to influence legislators to adopt the policies just as they wrote them (Ferrara, 1998; Philpott, 2009; “Shaping laws with little scrutiny,” 2010).

However, the political landscape changed in 2008. The local foods movement had steadily been gaining in popularity, and they were finding allies with public health and environmental advocates. They came together and developed new tools to push the farm bill debate toward their common goals (“The 2008 Farm Bill – Debate & Influences,” n.d.). The media had also begun to popularize the concept of local foods, and food writers such as Michael Pollen (The Omnivore’s Dilemma, 2006), Marion Nestle (What to Eat, 2007), and Eric Schlosser (Fast Food Nation, 2005) were becoming heroes of the local and healthy food movement.

The national spotlight that our broken food system received during this process helped inspire many entrepreneurial groups to launch businesses and non-profit organizations that attempt to solve some of the problems. With the creation of the HUFEDC at the Wallace Center, the first round of federal grants became available in 2009 to assist organizations and socially responsible businesses in developing their programs. Ten organizations across the country have so far been awarded grants. Two notable groups that are specifically addressing low-income community access to healthy foods are Los Angeles Communities Advocating for Unity, Social Justice, and Action (LA CAUSA), located in East LA, and La Cocina, located in San Francisco’s Mission District. LA CAUSA is using the award to help open new or renovated bodega-style markets or corner stores that “increase the availability, appeal, and consumption of fresh fruits and vegetables” (Frain Muldoon, 2010). La Cocina is a business incubator that helps food start-ups, owned primarily by minorities and women in underserved communities, improve the quality and nutritional aspects of their products, assist with local sourcing of ingredients, and develop green business practices (Frain Muldoon, 2010).

Conclusion

The trend toward more sustainable agriculture practices is increasing every year. The 2008 Farm Bill and the progressive policies it included, like the Healthy Urban Food Enterprise Development Center, are impressive but they are just a small start. Work is already underway for the 2012 Farm Bill, and it is important that lawmakers listen to all their constituents, especially those from underserved communities who are often overlooked in these conversations. $3 million over three years is something, but in comparison to the $288 billion total bill (“Food, Conservation, and Energy Act of 2008,” 2010), it is clear that advocates for food system reform have a lot more work to do.

References

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Engler-Stringer, R. (2009). The Domestic Foodscapes of Young Low-Income Women in Montreal: Cooking Practices in the Context of an Increasingly Processed Food Supply. Health Education & Behavior, 37(211). doi:1177/1090198109339453

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Frain Muldoon, M. (2010, September 15). Healthy Urban Food Enterprise Development Center.Wallace Center at Winrock International. Retrieved December 1, 2010, from http://www.wallacecenter.org/our-work/current-initiatives/healthy-urban-food-enterprise-development-center/national-good-food-network-regional-lead-teams

Lucan, S., Karpyn, A., & Sherman, S. (2010). Storing Empty Calories and Chronic Disease Risk: Snack-Food Products, Nutritive Content, and Manufacturers in Philadelphia Corner Stores.Journal of Urban Health: Bulletin of the New York Academy of Medicine, 87(3). doi:10.1007/s11524-010-9453-5

Peterson, C. C. (2008). Food, Conservation, and Energy Act of 2008. Retrieved from http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/bdquery/z?d110:H.R.6124:

Philpott, T. (2009, July 8). Monsanto’s man Taylor returns to FDA in food-czar role. Grist. Retrieved December 2, 2010, from http://www.grist.org/article/2009-07-08-monsanto-FDA-taylor

Shaping laws with little scrutiny. (2010, October 29). Morning Edition. Washington, DC: NPR. Retrieved from http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=130891396

The 2008 Farm Bill – Debate & Influences. (n.d.). American Farmland Trust. Retrieved December 1, 2010, from http://www.farmland.org/programs/farm-bill/debate/influences.asp

Toews, J. (2010, June 10). The Disappearing Family Farm. The Real Truth. Retrieved December 1, 2010, from http://www.realtruth.org/articles/100607-006-family.html

Winne, M. (2008). Closing the food gap: Resetting the table in the land of plenty. Boston, MA: Beacon Press.